Interlude 6. Nafplio: September 27–30
We planned our 2024 trip through Greece with breaks throughout, during which we could stay in apartments and live semi-normal lives for a few days between multi-day hikes. Trekking Hellas hikes are extremely well-organized and the hotels are always comfortable and hospitable, but it is tiring to move from place to place every night, and keeping up with laundry can be a challenge.
So every week or two, we’d stop someplace, live in a house, and catch our breaths. We picked our break locations for geographic convenience, historical interest, and nostalgia. These interludes were just as much a part of the trip as the hikes.
At the midpoint of our two-month trip, we spent a weekend relaxing in Nafplio.
We picked Nafplio for several reasons. It was conveniently located between Sparta and Athens, where we needed to return our car and catch our ferry. It’s beautiful and well-served with amenities. It was familiar territory; we’ve spent time there on projects with the Center for Hellenic Studies, which has an office in the town. We could also knock off Mycenae and Epidaurus.
Also, I found the NICEST apartment!
Nafplio 2008-2009
In 2008, we went to Nafplio to set up the copystand that the CHS had commissioned for the 2007 Venetus A project. We returned the next year to pack the thing back up and transport it to Patras, where Chris and our sister-in-law Casey Dué Hackney presented a talk at the university there. Both times we found Nafplio to be charming.
Like most Greek towns, Nafplio has remnants of Venetian and Turkish dominance. The Bourtzi Castle in the harbor is one of the eye-catching landmarks.
Palamidi is a Venetian fortress up above the city. Back in 2008, we made a rule that everyone who arrived that week had to climb to the top; it was a good ice breaker!
Nafplio was and is a big beach resort, packed with tourists in the summer.
My, but we looked younger then! Amazing what a difference 16 years can make.
Nafplio 2025
Though we are not now that strength which in old days moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are. Also, this time we had our own car!
We arrived in Nafplio on Friday afternoon, found our apartment, and met our host’s dad. As per usual, Dad lived downstairs and handled all logistics. Anastasia handled all communications, but we never saw her.
Nafplio itself hadn’t changed much, though it did seem to have a LOT more people in it.
Our fun weekend
Chris came down with a stomach bug the first night, which put a bit of a damper on our activities. I spent Saturday walking around town by myself. I bought a new case for my iphone (badly needed) and found the Lidl (useful).
It’s not a terrible thing to have some downtime.
Sunday morning, we were awakened by bells ringing everywhere, but most especially at the church just above our apartment.
Chris was feeling a bit better, so we drove off to visit Mycenae. Though I studied the Aegean Bronze Age in some depth back in college, I didn’t remember a heck of a lot about the site. But it must have been an excellent site for a citadel–it’s high with a great view of the gulf and the surrounding plain, so you could see attackers a long way off.
After a rest at home, we walked down into town to get a little air and exercise.
Back at our apartment, we were treated to an astonishing sunset. Wildfires had broken out near Corinth, and they filled the sky with smoke.
