Highlights

Many, many, many little monasteries perched on the sides of mountains. A long traverse through the gorge of the River Lousios, where the nymphs once bathed baby Zeus. Many sheep and goats, guarded by diligent dogs who scared the hell out of us but were content to see us pass by, pale and sweating.

We never bothered with the guided tours of the monasteries. They were cool to look at, though.

But when the trail was good, it could be perfectly beautiful. I’ve got a blog-post in the works on the elaborate taxonomy of highways, but suffice it to say that Menelon had us walking along woodland tracks, logging roads, ancient paths of commerce paved with cobbles of immemorial antiquity.

When the path was good, it was magical.