The heading is link to a GaiaGPS.com page showing Greece and all our
hikes.
Thoughts on Navigation
GaiaGPS offers an excellent mobile app, that works great online or
offline. And you can access your hikes and all your stats over the web,
as you see here. If you log into the website and the
mobile app, everything syncs automatically.
GaiaGPS mobile appThe stats you get!
The trick (!!!) is to remember to “start tracking” at the beginning
of a walk, and to end it when you’re done (before you get into a car and
drive somewhere).
Overview of a walkAnd here you see (in blue) the GPX track
we got from TrekkingHellas, and what we actually walked (in
purple)
Amy makes observations from Stemnitsa,
Arcadia in the Peloponnese.
The Battle of Thermopylae!
490 BC. Darius, King of Kings of Persia, invaded Attica, where Athens
is. There was a battle at Marathon.
480 BC. The Persians, under King Xerxes, invaded mainland Greece to
punish Athens for stirring up trouble with the Greek cities of Asia,
their Ionian cousins.
The Story of Pheidippides and Marathon
(map)!The famous stories from 480 BC involve
battles on land and sea.Modern Sparta has not forgotten
Leonidas!Sea didn’t go well for the
Persians.Gratuitous Drone Footage of the Byzantine
Fortress of Mistras, above the plain of Sparta.The site of Thermopylae is a little
dissapointing. But they do have Simonides’ inscription.To get a sense of the “goat path”, we can
look at the trails along the southern coast of Crete.
Around the Islands of Greece
Rhodes, Santorini
First, a
very few notes on tech for travel photography.
iPhone.
Just iPhone.
(Comparison to my lovely, expensive Fujis…)
Fuji:
The best lenses in the world.
Fun physical controls.
The best in-camera processing.
Looks classy, like $10,000 Leika.
iPhone:
Instant sharing.
You’ve got one.
Software controls. Can be, and are, updated.
Supercomputing processing… not to be overlooked!
[Note on Samsung phones… which go a bit farther!]
But you are using your iPhone for other things!
navigation,
WhatsApp-ing your gal in Delphi or your guy in Kathmandu
You can see that our project of “hiking
around Greece and talking about stuff” was really “hiking around the
Aegean Sea.”Very few parts of “Greece” were not
closely tied to the sea. Here’s Amy looking like Ariadne or
Dido.Ships and boats have always been a
central part of life. Ask Themisocles, or Aristotle
Onassis!
Let’s Learn Greek!
ἡ ναῦς (hē naus) = “warship”. Gives us “nautical” and
“nausea”.
Speaking of Themistocles…“Barbeque” in Greek!Archaeologists also classify this area by
the sea, e.g. “Aegean bronze age” is how they describe the period of the
Iliad and major myths. This is Kato Zakro, in Eastern
Crete.Now as in St. Paul’s time, you get around
the Aegean in hired boats. Ferries.Crucial for island-hopping.Ferry stops throughout the Dodecanese or
Cyclades or whatever.You might disembark or embark at 2:00
AM.
All commerce on the islands depends on
ferries!
Very comfortable if you get a cabin. Beds and an en-suite
bathroom.
“Deck class” not so comfortable but cheap, and Greeks in particular
don’t have a lot of money; people bunk down anywhere
There’s an intermedediate class where you have basically an airplane
seat, complete with in-seat entertainment.
Bar, Pool Bar, Snack Bar, Casual Restaurant, White-tablecloth
restaurant.
The truck drivers seem to use the fancy restaurants! Maybe they get
a deal? Or their boss just pays for it?
Schedules are pretty good, but they can run late because of numerous
stops with complicated loading and unloading; can be cancelled if
weather is bad.
Book online!
Advantages over flying
Boarding
Security
Authenticity
Try finding this “in flight
entertainment” on United! (“Fast Ferry here”)
Touristic towns not so great - crowded, expensive, and don’t feel
like Greece
Close to Turkey - phones acted like we were there during part of the
ferry rides
The ferry ride from Athens to Rhodes is very long, around 16 hours,
with lots of stops in islands
Rhodes was THE cultural center at the eastern edge of the Aegean;
looking east is the Mediterranean
It is most famous, of course, for its
“Colossos”.It stood astride the entry to the
protected harbor. It was built by Chares of Lindos in 280 BC. It
collapsed in the earthquake of 226 BC.
People traveled from Rome to study rhetoric; it was the place to
stop before sailing on to the Levant or back west to Athens/Rome
Inhabited for thousands of years, famous for its naval fleet,
important in ancient wars with eastern potentates
Later occupied by Knights Templar and more recently by Italy - can
still see Italian buildings in Rhodes City
We didn’t really like the Old Town of
Rhodos, but it is cool that people actually live in these
buildings!The Guns of Navarone!Anthony Quinn’s Bay!Instead of walking place to place, we
stayed several nights in Embonas. Famous for its roasted
meats.The hotel owner’s dad Manolis drove us
two and from trailheads. (He didn’t speak English at all!)Let’s talk about donkeys!Our hikes on Rhodes were generally up to
the top of mountains. Here’s “Profitis Ilias” (the “Prophet
Elijah”).A pause to talk about
drones.
This is Akramitis. Once we found the
trail, it was the best hike we did on Rhodes.We failed to reach the summit of
Atavyros, the highest peak in Rhodes. We have a history of failing to
reach summits.
Rationale: Our ferry schedule didn’t allow direct transit from
Rhodes to Crete the day we were sailing, and Thira was important
historically and archaeologically (Minoan Akrotiri)
Volcano erupted 1645-1600 BCE, KABOOM – traces of this throughout
the Bronze Age world
Santorini today is a HUGE tourism center
The scenery really is extraordinary, but the place doesn’t feel like
Greece
Even the Greeks who are there are mostly transient workers from the
mainland and other places
Maps can be misleading - our town was technically about 1 km from
the port, but a 20-minute drive up a winding cliffside road
Not that we’re complaining or
anything!We did enjoy our hike along the edge of
the ancient caldera.And there is no denying that the view was
spectacular!
Our last island, in a different category, was Crete!
We’ll do Crete and our new adventures in Ithaca when we return from
our travels!
Crete was an important civilization center in its own right, with
multiple Bronze Age sites.
Southern edge of the Aegean.
Now rapidly developing a beach tourism industry.
Extremely rugged terrain – even after Rhodes, which was super rocky
and rough, Crete kicked our butts.
Why isn’t there a highway across the southern coast of Crete?
Gorges! Also severely mountainous: “And you go up!”
South coast has a bunch of ferries instead. Car-free towns - the
Alps have these too.
Samaria Gorge. Mostly waterless and toilet-less, huge tourist draw,
uncertain whether it will be open, massive crowds in summer and omg it
would be hot, walk is actually really long and hard!
To see what it would be like to live on a mountaintop
Why would you live on a waterless mountaintop? The only reason is if
it was actually impossible to live safely lower down. (And how did they
keep toddlers from toddling off the edge?)
Living conditions were very poor. The artifacts “we” (Amy and her
colleagues) found were very basic.
Pirates! Pirates notorious for stealing people to sell as slaves.
(St. Patrick was stolen from his family home in England and spent
several years in Ireland as a shepherd-slave before escaping and
becoming a priest.)
Lefkada, Greece. In the west, where the
Ionian Sea meets the Adriatic.
Agenda
To talk about food!
To give some love to Western Greece.
To share some mythology and literature.
To make a connection with the past.
To talk abot story-telling with cameras.
Food!
Ordering lunch at a roadside taverna in
Lefkadi.Some other dishes. Every locality will
have their specialities, but they all have the basic Greek
stuff.Moussaka!This is what restaurants
assume.The specialities will be hand-written on
a board our front.Tsitsiravla, the delicious pickled greens
of Pelion!You often have company for dining.
Especially at seafood places.Tasty fish! Amy picked this one out
herself.Honey is very much a thing.Walnuts! καρύδια,
karydia.The pleasures of off-season travel… more
harvesting going on!Symi shrimp, horiatiki, and dolmadákia,
on Rhodes.We cannot leave without a shout-out to
Pavlidi’s Health Chocolate, the greatest “swords to plowshares” story
ever.Map.George Gordon Byron, 6th Baron Byron (22
January 1788 – 19 April 1824)
Romantic-period poet: Don Juan, Childe Harold’s
Pilgrimage.
“Swimming the Hellespont”
In Greek mythology, Hero, a priestess of Aphrodite, lived in a tower
in Sestos. Every night, her lover, Leander from Abydos, swam across the
Hellespont to see her, guided by a lamp she lit.
On May 3, 1810, Byron reproduced this feat.
Getting oriented.The Hellespont. Dangerous
currents!Byron recovering at a fisherman’s
house.
If, in the month of dark December,
Leander, who was nightly wont
(What maid will not the tale remember?)
To cross thy stream, broad Hellespont!
If, when the wintry tempest roar’d,
He sped to Hero, nothing loth,
And thus of old thy current pour’d,
Fair Venus! how I pity both!
For me, degenerate modern wretch,
Though in the genial month of May,
My dripping limbs I faintly stretch,
And think I’ve done a feat to-day.
But since he cross’d the rapid tide,
According to the doubtful story,
To woo, – and – Lord knows what beside.
And swam for Love, as I for Glory;
‘Twere hard to say who fared best:
Sad mortals! thus the Gods still plague you!
He lost his labour, I my jest:
For he was drown’d. and I’ve the ague.
Sunium: The Temple of
Poseidon
Byron died of an “ague” at the Seige of
Lepanto in 1824, fighting for Greek independence.Quick comparison… a clip before
sound-editing in Final Cut Pro.
Images as story-telling
Just like writing a novel.
Manipulating time is the heart of storytelling.
“Colorful SEXy Movement”: Attention to color,
Selection & Exclusion, plus
movement.
Not reproducing reality, but distilling it and enhancing it.
Time-lapse photography
Shows us the world we see all the time, but by manipulating time,
shows it in a new light.
Normal video: 30 frames / second. Timelapse, maybe 1 frame every 2
seconds.
Sunrises and sunsets are classic uses for
time-lapse.
I can’t explain all the details, but you must make every camera
setting manual!
“The lights begin to twinkle from the
rocks. | The long day wanes, the slow moon climbs.” —
TennysonMovements of clouds and light on a
landscape.Time-lapse is inherently about movement,
but adding camera-movement makes it more dramatic. You can do this with
a smart “gimble” or with a drone.Completely gratuitous time-lapse of
Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal.
Probably, an external battery to keep the whole thing running while
you wait for hours to complete the shot.
iPhone on a selfie-stick/tripod; plugged
into a big battery; clicking away at one frame every 2 seconds, for
hours.
Was Lefkada
actually the “Ithaca” of Odysseus?
Wilhelm Dörpfeld, the successor to Heinrich Schliemann, thought
so.
The people of Lefkada certainly embrace this idea!
Wilhelm Dörpfeld.
My native land is Ithaca, a sunlit island
With a forested peak called Neriton,
Visible for miles. Many other islands
Lie close around her—Doulichion, Samē,
And wooded Zacynthos—off toward the sunrise,
But Ithaca lies low on the evening horizon…
— Homer, Odyssey, 9.24–9.29
Our map of the islands of Western
Greece.What Dörpfeld argued…Dörpfeld’s map, based on a common
orientation of ancient maps, and how the “west wind” actually
blows!Topographical map of the island now
called “Ithaka”. Highest peak: 2,654 ft.Topographical map of Lefkada. Highest
peak: 3,878 ft.In keeping with our principles of
traveling by foot or boat, we took a tour.
…Twenty men together
Could not match his wealth. Let me count it for you.
Twelve herd of cattle over on the mainland,
And as many flocks of sheep, droves of swine,
And spreading herds of goats—all of them pastured
By his own herdsmen or hired foreigners.
— Homer, Odyssey 14.110-14.115
Which island looks more convenient for
keeping all one’s flocks and herds on the mainland?The Greek people are as rational as any
people, and they believe their mythology. Here’s the
Gateway to the Underworld.Closer to the portal to the
underworld!In a boat, you can get close to some
really ancient history.
Introduction to Drones
Available to anyone who is willing to put in the time to figure out
some stuff, and who can afford to travel internationally. Budget $1,200
for the Drone, memory cards, and extra batteries.
The culmination of technologies that arose during our
lifetimes!
Battery tech. Light and powerful. Tiny
super-computers, like in your phone. (Anecdote from the Netflix
show “Farthest”, about the Voyager Spacecraft, c. 1972. Recommended!).
GPS: President Clinton turned off “selective
availability” and deserves credit for transforming the world with that
decision. WIFI. Digital cameras.
Remember the “camcorders” of the 1980s? These modern drones can do 4k
video, stored on a tiny chip, with stunning image-processing (see
“super-computers”, above).
The result:
Black Magic Voodoo. And fun vacation pics!
Story-telling: Think of the
helicopter-shot that opens “The Souwnd of Music”… perfect story-telling,
scene-setting!
The fancy controller (not the cheap one that uses your phone.)
You have to manage: altitude, speed, yaw (rotation),
direction-of-flight, camera-tilt, camera-zoom.
This is too much! So you have to take advantage of the amazing
computation built into these little things.
A quickly edited introdution to the
experience.
Programmatic Drone Shots!
The island of Atokos, between Lefkada and
Ithaca, is overrun with feral pigs. Did Circe live here?“Zoomy”: The most basic programmed
effect. Go from close and down to far and above, keeping the subject as
the center of attention. Provides both focus and context.“Spiral” and “Circle”: Another great way
to focus on a subject while giving larger context.Auto-follow: Capturing our “walking &
talking” through dynamic movements while keeping us as the focus. We
could record our conversation and splice it in with this footage, so it
would seem like the drone could hear us. You’d need a dramatic “clap” to
sync the two videos!Programmed flight. The main city on the
modern ilands of Ithaca is Vathy. It is cute and a popular destination
for expensive saling boats. As all these towns and cities in the
islands, it grew around a protected harbor.
Which is
not to say that still photography can’t be magical!
Akrotiri, where Sappho leapt to her
death.Sunlight on the Lagoon of the Gulf of
Lefkada, Ionian Sea, looking toward the island of Kalamos.We will leave you with this view of
Akrotiri, the white cliffs at the south end of Lefkada, where the poet
Sappho leapt to her death.
Thank you!
Contact: christopher.blackwell@furman.edu
We will happily share any of the media files from this presentation,
however might be helpful.